Additional cooling of the system unit. Very quiet and efficient water cooling system. Do it yourself. Green fluorescent dye

Foreword

Agree, the temperature is 66 ° C for Athlon 1000 MHz (don't laugh, my principle is not iron, but what surrounds it) at rest, but at 100% load 75 ° C, it's a bit too much ... Therefore, this unit was born.

This SVO was originally conceived as an external one - put it in a corner and let it stand there, and only two hoses fit the computer, in my opinion, and ideas for the future can be stuffed with the system unit with something else, for example - neon illumination, UV illumination, beautiful round stubs, glowing in UV, etc. Unfortunately, the drawings of some elements have not survived, and they are not needed - everyone does everything for themselves, starting from the materials at their disposal. The main principle.

Components for SVO

Pump - Atman-103, sold in any pet store. Installed inside the expansion tank on the wall using suction cups.

The standard pump outlet fitting was thrown into the trash due to the fact that its diameter did not fit my requests (diameter of the hoses). Instead, a self-made one with an inlet diameter of 16 mm, an outlet diameter of 10 mm (outer diameters) and a transition cone is installed.

The radiator - from the stove of a Toyota car, gave each for two kopecks of beer, drunk together. It is cleaned of dirt with acetone, rinsed with it from the inside, and painted with spray paint from the outside. The inlet and outlet fittings were replaced, again, with homemade ones. Fitted tightly to the sealant. It turned out great - it doesn't flow anywhere.

Two fans are installed on the radiator, bought in the online store - they cool and look great!

I thought for a long time how to fix the fans to the radiator. Everything turned out to be simple - down with self-tapping screws and complex fasteners !!! All ingenious (well, I'm humble) is just ...
To attach the fans, I needed a few rubber bands (erasers) from the nearest office supply store and cable ties.

The elastic bands are cut into cubes, ties are inserted into the mounting holes of the fans and fixed with the same cubes.

Then the ties are inserted into the slots of the radiator.

We fix it on the reverse side with cut locks from the same ties. And this is what we get

I think it's great ... and simple !!! The expansion tank is a plastic food container, in my case it is round, but there are others in shape that can be found in a manufactured goods store. To add liquid, the neck of a 5-liter water bottle is cut into the tank lid.

Hoses - silicone tube inner diameter 8 mm, bought a liquid level at a hardware store.

Fits on hose preheated fittings for a more airtight fit. The landing sites are crimped with clamps from the nearest auto shop.

Relay - BS 115C, purchased from a radio store. It is necessary to automatically turn on the CBO simultaneously with turning on the power of the computer.

The system is mounted on a plexiglass platform, I found it in the garage, since it was badly scratched, I had to make it matte. The reservoir is mounted on rubber gaskets to reduce vibration during pump operation.

To enter the hoses into the computer case, an adapter panel is made from a standard plug. There are two fittings on it, a coolant inlet and outlet, and a 12V power connector.

It connects to the CBO panel using this tail:

I pay special attention to safety measures when handling electricity!
All live elements must be protected from accidental fingers getting there!

In general, the unit looks like this

The overall dimensions of the system are as follows: D270, Sh200, V160.

The water block is made of M1 copper. This copper blank was bought at a non-ferrous metal collection point for 200 rubles. Its diameter is 65mm, height is 25mm. It is assembled from two parts, a base and a cover made in the form of a glass with holes for fittings. The thickness of the base is 5mm, on it there are heat-removing ribs 2mm wide and 7mm high with a step of 2mm, a total of 11 ribs. This product is made using a lathe and a milling machine. The design is completely sealed and tested under 4 atmospheres pressure.

The side of the underbody adjacent to the processor is polished. In order to prevent the water block from oxidizing and darkening over time (copper all the same), it was necessary to cover it with a thin layer of car varnish from a can.

The fastening of the water block is individual for everyone, it all depends on the type of mother and the processor used. I followed the simplest path. I installed metal racks in the holes near the processor on the motherboard (the main thing is not to forget about the dielectric spacers).

Small "ears" are made of fluoroplastic, with the help of which the water block is attached to the motherboard with screws. The beauty of this material lies in its strength and ease of processing, only a knife was needed from the tool. And it is also a little springy and, therefore, when installed on the processor, it will not allow the screws to be overtightened until unwanted cracks form on it.

After the final installation in the case, everything looks like this:

Any computer or laptop needs a good cooling system to function properly. During operation, elements such as a processor (CPU), video card, motherboard generate a lot of heat and get very hot. The higher the CPU performance metric, the more heat it gives off. If the PC does not quickly remove air, this can lead to various system failures, improper functioning of equipment, decreased performance, and cause the failure of important elements. Why is the processor heating up? How to cool down the CPU in PCs and laptops? Which cooler to choose for optimal PC cooling? We will try to answer these questions in this article.

Causes of CPU overheating

If the computer starts shutting down, glitching, freezing, it may be due to overheating of the CPU. The reasons why the PC processor begins to overheat are of a very different nature. Therefore, we will consider the main ones, as well as provide simple ways to solve problems.

In most PCs and laptops, the main elements of the cooling system are a cooler (fan) and a radiator, which are installed on the processor. Due to the closest contact, the heat transfer between the surface of the heatsink and the processor is minimal, which in turn ensures fast, efficient heat dissipation.

The radiator can be monolithic or in two parts. In the first case, it is completely fixed on the processor (budget option), in the second case, only a small part of it is attached to the CPU, inside which there are heat pipes that transfer heated air to the main radiator.

The primary role in the ventilation system of the case and cooling of the PC is played by the fan. Regardless of its location, it cools the entire radiator or its main part. The more efficiently it works, the better the heat dissipation from the CPU will be, and, accordingly, the lower its temperature. Heatpipe coolers provide more cooling for the processor.

If the processor starts to warm up, the main reasons include:

• deterioration of contact between the processor and the heatsink;
• decrease in speed cooler (fan) operation;
• use of ineffective cooling systems;
• absence ventilation systems in the case, in the PC power supply;
• pollution ventilation holes dust enclosures;
• failure cooling systems;
• wrong fixing the radiator.

An increase in the process temperature can also be caused by the fact that the cooler is trite clogged with dust... For this reason, its speed and work efficiency are reduced. The fan is simply not capable of dissipating heat. To increase heat dissipation, after replacing the CPU, it is worth purchasing and installing a new model of case cooler.

Another reason is upgrade PC. For example, after replacing the old CPU, a new, more powerful, productive one was installed. But at the same time, the fan in the cooling system remains the same. Due to the increase in power, the processor cooler simply does not fully cope with its task.

If the processor is heating up, consider what to do in this situation.

How can you cool the processor of a PC, laptop

Overheating of the processor in laptops, desktop computers significantly increases the load on all system elements. To reduce heat generation, reduce energy consumption, you must:

• check the condition of the cooling system, clean;
• reduce the load on the CPU;
• overclock the processor cooler;
• replace thermal paste;
• install additional coolers.

You can also reduce the heat dissipation of the processor in BIOS settings operating system. This is the simplest and most affordable method that does not require much time and physical effort.

There are special technologies that reduce CPU frequency at idle time. For AMD processors technology was named Cool'n'Quite, for Intel - Enhanced SpeedStep Technology... Consider how to activate it.

In Windows 7, you need to go to " Control Panel", Select the section" Power supply". In the window that opens, check which mode is active: “ Balanced», « High performance», « Energy saving". Any technology can be selected to activate, except for High Performance. In Windows XP, you must select " Energy Saving Manager».

Energy saving settings must be included in the BIOS, if they are not, then you can load the default parameters.

It is equally important to pay attention to the system ventilation of the case... If the cooling system is working properly, it is regularly cleaned, but the CPU is still heating up, then you need to see if there are obstacles in the way of the air flow, for example, if they are not covered with thick loops of wires.

The system unit, the PC case should have two or three fans. One - for blowing in on the front wall, the second - for blowing out at the rear, which in turn ensures good air flow. Additionally, you can install a fan on the side wall of the system unit.

If the PC system unit is in the nightstand inside the table, then do not close the doors so that the heated air comes out. Do not block the ventilation openings of the case. Place the computer a few centimeters from the wall, furniture.

A dedicated cooling pad is available for your laptop.

On sale there is a large selection of universal models of stands that adapt to the dimensions, the size of the laptop. A heat-dissipating surface, built-in coolers will contribute to more efficient heat dissipation and cooling.

When working on a laptop, always keep your work area clean. The ventilation openings must not be blocked by anything. Objects lying nearby should not impede air circulation.

For laptops, you can also run cooler overclocking... Since the PC has at least three fans (on the CPU, video card, built-in storage), and in most laptop models there is only one. The second can be installed if there is a powerful video card. In this case, you can overclock the coolers:

• through special utilities;
• via BIOS.

Before increasing the fan speed, first of all, you need to clean the cooler, motherboard elements from dust.

Cleaning the cooling system of a laptop, stationary PC should be carried out at least once every six to seven months.

Cleaning the cooling system

If the processor heats up, check the condition of the fan, the entire PC cooling system. Dust is a serious enemy of any technique. Blocked between the edges of the radiator, dust, lint, pet hair impairs air circulation.

To thoroughly clean it, you must disconnect the cooler from the power supply and disassemble it. By removing the fan, you can also clean the dust accumulated on the heatsink. Cleaning of the radiator and cooler blades can be done with a special plastic spatula and a stiff brush. After removing the dust, wipe the radiator with a damp cloth.

In addition to removing dust from the radiator, wipe the dust from the wires located in the case. Blow out or wipe down the vents on the cabinet.

Replacing thermal paste

Updating, replacing thermal paste on the processor will help to reduce the heat dissipation of the processor. Thermal grease is nothing more than a lubricant for cooling the processor. It is a heat conductor between the CPU and the heatsink, eliminates microscopic irregularities in contacting surfaces, removes air between them, which prevents heat dissipation. A good, high-quality thermal paste will lower the temperature by 5-10 degrees.

Over time, the paste dries up, loses all its properties, does not cool the processor. Therefore, it must be replaced every six months. If the PC has a more modern CPU, the thermal paste can be changed less frequently. You can buy it at any computer hardware store. Thermal paste should be of high quality, good quality.

Before applying the thermal paste to cool the CPU, you need to get to the CPU itself. For this:

How to Pick a Good Thermal Paste

Given the large selection of thermal pastes, many are interested in the question of which thermal paste is better. Note that the difference between pastes from different manufacturers can be from ten to twenty degrees. It all depends on the quality characteristics, heat-conducting properties of thermal interfaces. A good heat transfer paste should have low thermal resistance, high thermal conductivity.

According to experts, for cooling the processor, you can purchase:

• Arctic Cooling MX-4.
• Arctic Silver Ceramique.
• Noctua NT-H1.
• Prolimatech PK-1.
• Thermalright Chill Factor III.
• Zalman ZM-STG2.
• Glacialtech IceTherm II.
• Coollaboratory Liquid Pro.

Some pastes can also be used to overclock the processor. For example, Arctic Cooling MX-4, Glacialtech IceTherm II, Thermalright Chill Factor III, Coollaboratory Liquid Pro. Knowing which thermal paste is better, how often and how to properly replace it, you can significantly reduce the temperature of the CPU, thereby extending its operating life.

How to undo processor overclocking

Many users overclock the processor in order to improve performance, speed up the CPU. But in some cases, this procedure significantly increases the load on the CPU, which can negatively affect its functioning, and lead to a decrease in the operating resource.

To check if the CPU is working properly after overclocking, it is necessary to warm up the processor using special utilities.

If you are interested in how to remove CPU overclocking, go to CMOS and BIOS. Cancel all motherboard voltage settings, return them to normal configuration.

Actions are performed in the following sequence:

1. We go into BIOS by pressing the desired button when starting the computer.
2. We select the item " Set BIOS Default / Use Default Settings", Press Enter.
3. A window will be highlighted in which you need to press the Y key.
4. This will restore the original settings that were set before the CPU overclocking.
5. Now we save all the changes made, exit the settings.
6. We reboot the computer.

You can also do this by selecting the option “ Restore Fail Safe Defaults», Having previously learned on the Internet the exact specifications of the installed motherboard, CPU. This is necessary in order to make changes by setting the basic settings for frequency, voltage.

In addition, you can change the setting of the system bus frequency, the multiplier to the base value, returning back all the parameters that were changed during overclocking.

You can also remove additional cooling hardware that you installed to prevent the CPU from overheating.

You can manage, monitor the processor using a special utility - CPU Core, where you need to specify, set the desired values ​​of the multiplier, bus frequency.

Installing additional fans

If the CPU continues to heat up after cleaning, canceling overclocking, then in order to increase the cooling efficiency, we recommend installing additional fans on the case to enhance air circulation. This is necessary if there are many heating elements inside the system unit or if there is a rather small amount of free space inside it.

Give preference to coolers with a large diameter, which will provide more air flow at lower rpms. Such models work efficiently, but are noisy. When installing, consider the direction of their work.

Coolers for processors are classified into:

• Boxed, without heat pipes. The most common models. They consist of an aluminum plate with ribs. May have a copper base with a fan attached to it.
• Cooling systems on thermal aluminum, copper pipes. They function due to heat removal, which is carried out due to the liquid circulating in them. They have high performance indicators.

When choosing fans for a cooling system, read the installation instructions, check its compatibility with the socket, motherboard, which socket is for the processor. Consider weight, fan size, type of radiator.

Too large, high-power fans will put additional stress on the motherboard and may cause it to deform. As for the size, select the chassis bus, consider the location of other components. Choose products from well-known, trusted manufacturers.

If a large number of hard drives are installed, then you can additionally install a fan on the front panel of the case, as well as on the rear upper part of the system unit to remove warm air to the outside. Modern cases allow you to install at least two fans: from the bottom, if there is no perforation on the front panel, and opposite the location of the hard drives.

If the PC has a highly advanced hardware, the processor heats up, then you can remove the side cover of the system unit. In this case, the cooling efficiency will be increased significantly.

How to overclock a cooler

You can overclock the cooler, as already noted, through the BIOS or through special free utilities that will allow you to control and control the speed of the fans. Programs are designed for different types of processors.

Let's consider how to overclock coolers via BIOS:

For processors Intel reduce or increase the rotational speed of the cooler will allow programs Riva tuner, SpeedFan... They have great functionality, a choice of settings, a clear interface, do not take up much space, and automatically control the operation of coolers.

If the third-party software on the PC does not allow adjusting the fan speed, the processor cooler can be controlled using the original utilities from the manufacturers. For example, HP leptokas have a program Notebook Fan Control, in Acer - Smart Fan, ACFanControl... In Lenovo - Fan Control.

Modern "advanced" cooling systems, which are most often used in overclocking, include: radiator, freon, liquid nitrogen, liquid gel. Their principle of operation is based on the circulation of the coolant. Highly heated elements heat the water, which is cooled in the radiator. It can be located outside the case or passive, operating without a fan.

Conclusion

This article has discussed various causes of processor overheating and options for solving this problem. Sometimes the reason for its occurrence can be ordinary dust, which periodically needs to be removed, or the consequences of inexperienced overclocking of equipment, as well as its upgrade. When replacing thermal paste, care must be taken to avoid damaging the equipment.

Related Videos

In this article I will try to talk about my attempt to make a water cooling system for a processor at home. At the same time, I will describe the main points and technical subtleties using my own experience as an example. If you are interested in a detailed illustrated guide for the manufacture, assembly and installation of such a system, then welcome under cat.

Traffic, lots of pictures! Video of the manufacturing process at the very bottom.

I started thinking about creating more efficient cooling for my home computer while looking for a way to improve the performance of my computer by "overclocking" the processor. An overclocked processor consumes 1.5 times more power and heats up accordingly. The main constraint on the purchase of a ready-made one is the price; buying a ready-made water cooling system in a store is unlikely to cost less than a hundred dollars. And in the reviews, budget liquid cooling systems are not particularly praised. So it was decided to make the simplest CBO independently and at minimal cost.

Theory and assembly

Basic details

• Water block (or heat exchanger)
• Centrifugal water pump (pump) with a capacity of 600 liters / h.
• Cooling radiator (car)
• Expansion tank for coolant (water)
• Hoses 10-12 mm;
• Fans with a diameter of 120mm (4 pieces)
• Fan power supply
• Expendable materials

Waterblock

The main task of the water block is to quickly take heat from the processor and transfer it to the coolant. Copper is most suitable for these purposes. It is possible to manufacture a heat exchanger from aluminum, but its thermal conductivity (230W / (m * K)) is half that of copper (395.4 W / (m * K)). The device of the water block (or heat exchanger) is also important. The heat exchanger device is one or more continuous channels passing through the entire internal volume of the water block. It is important to maximize the contact surface with water and avoid water stagnation. To increase the surface, frequent cuts are usually used on the walls of the water block or small needle radiators are installed.

I didn't try to do something complicated, so I started making a simple water container with two holes for pipes. The base was a brass pipe connector, and the base was a copper plate 2 millimeters thick. From above, two copper pipes with a hose diameter are inserted into the same plate. Everything is sealed with tin-lead solder. While making the waterblock bigger, at first I didn't think about its weight. Assembled with hoses and water, more than 300 grams will hang on the motherboard, and for relief I had to use additional fasteners for the hoses.

• Material: copper, brass
• Diameter of fittings: 10 mm
• Soldering: Tin-lead solder
• Mounting method: screws to the store cooler mount, hoses are fastened with clamps
• Price: about 100 rubles

Sawing and soldering

water pump

Pumps are external or submersible. The first only passes it through itself, and the second pushes it out, being immersed in it. Here, a submersible is used, it is placed in a container with water. I could not find the outer one, I was looking for it in pet stores, and there were only submersible aquarium pumps. Capacity from 200 to 1400 liters per hour, price from 500 to 2000 rubles. Powered by an outlet, power from 4 to 20 watts. On a hard surface, the pump makes a lot of noise, and on foam rubber, the noise is negligible. A jar containing a pump was used as a water reservoir. Steel screw clamps were used to connect the silicone hoses. An odorless lubricant can be used to easily put on and remove the hoses.

• Maximum productivity - 650 l / h.
• Height of water rise - 80 cm
• Voltage - 220V
• Power - 6 W
• Price - 580 rubles

Radiator

How high-quality the radiator will be will largely determine the efficiency of the entire water cooling system. A car radiator heating system (stove) from nine was used here, an old one was bought at a flea market for 100 rubles. Unfortunately, the spacing between the plates in it turned out to be less than a millimeter, so I had to manually push and compress the plates several at a time so that weak Chinese fans could blow it through.

• Tubes material: copper
• Rib material: aluminum
• Size: 35x20x5 cm
• Diameter of fittings: 14 mm
• Price: 100 rubles

Blowing

The radiator is blown by two pairs of 12 cm fans in the front and back. It was not possible to power 4 fans from the system unit during the test, so I had to assemble a simple 12-volt power supply. The fans were connected in parallel and connected with the correct polarity. This is important, otherwise the fan is likely to be damaged. The cooler has 3 wires: black (ground), red (+ 12V) and yellow (speed value).

• Material: Chinese plastic
• Diameter: 12cm
• Voltage: 12V
• Current: 0.15 A
• Price: 80 * 4 rubles

Note to the hostess

I did not set the goal of noise reduction because of the cost of the fans. So the fan for 100 rubles is made of black plastic and consumes 150 milliamperes of current. These are the ones I used to blow the radiator, it blows weakly, but it's cheap. Already for 200-300 rubles, you can find much more powerful and beautiful models with a consumption of 300-600 milliamperes, but at maximum speed they are noisy. This is solved by silicone pads and anti-vibration mounts, but for me the minimum cost was critical.

Power Supply

If there is no ready-made at hand, you can assemble the simplest of the materials at hand and a microcircuit, which costs less than 100 rubles. For 4 fans, a current of 0.6 A is required and a little in reserve. The microcircuit provides approximately 1 ampere at a voltage of 9 to 15 volts, depending on the model. Any model can be used by setting a 12 volt variable resistor.

• Tools and soldering iron
• Radio parts
• Chip
• Wires and insulation
• Price: 100 rubles

Installation and verification

Hardware part

• Processor: Intel Core i7 960 3.2 GHz / 4.3 GHz
• Motherboard: ASUS Rampage 3 formula
• Power supply: OCZ ZX1250W
• Thermal paste: AL-SIL 3

Software

• Windows 7 x64 SP1
• Prime 95
• RealTemp 3.69
• Cpu-z 1.58

I didn't have to test for a long time, tk. the results did not even come close to the capabilities of an air cooler. The CBO radiator was so far blown off with only two Chinese fans out of 4 possible, and the plates have not yet been extended wider for better airflow. So, in the power saving mode and zero load, the processor temperature in air is about 42 degrees, and on a homemade SVO it is 57 degrees. Running the prime95 test for 4 streams (50% load) heats up to 65 degrees in air and up to 100 degrees in 30 seconds at CBO. When overclocked, the results are even worse.

An attempt was made to make a new waterblock with a thinner (0.5 mm) copper base plate and almost three times more spacious inside, albeit from the same materials (copper + brass). In the radiator, the fins have been moved apart for better airflow and two more fans have been added, now there are 4 of them. This time, in the power saving mode and zero load, the processor temperature in air is about 42 degrees, and on a home-made SVO it is about 55 degrees. Running the prime95 test for 4 streams (50% load) heats up to 65 degrees in air and up to 83 degrees in the CBO. But at the same time, the water in the circuit begins to heat up rather quickly and after 5-7 minutes the processor temperature reaches 96 degrees. These are readings without overclocking.

Collecting the CBO was, of course, interesting, but it was not possible to use it to cool a modern processor. In old computers, the stock cooler does an excellent job. Maybe I picked up low-quality materials or improperly made a water block, but it is not possible for me to assemble an SVO for less than 1000 rubles at home. After reading reviews of budget ready-made CBOs available in stores, I did not hope that my homemade product would be better than a good air cooler. For myself, I concluded that it is not worth saving in the future on components for the NWO. When I decide to buy an SVO for overclocking, I will definitely assemble it myself from individual parts.

Video clip

The "Gnome" project - the idea of ​​creating an SVO without an expansion tank appeared due to the fact that this element is either expensive to purchase (if you still find it on sale), or difficult to manufacture. A beautiful expansion tank requires diligence, neatness, and tools on hand. The budget option is also possible, but loses in appearance. In addition, the expansion tank is another additional element of the CBO that can leak. So why not give it up altogether?

Many water cooling enthusiasts, as well as experienced users who have created their own water cooling systems, will find more disadvantages of not having a tank than advantages. Traditionally, the advantages of its presence include the simplicity of filling the system and removing air bubbles. The cons, however, can be overlooked, since they really may not be in the case of an experienced user. But what should an inexperienced person do when faced with the task of creating effective cooling for their PC? In this case, there is always a choice - to purchase a hi-end air cooler, but their price has already approached $ 60 and more, and there is no doubt that new models will become more and more expensive. Although an air cooler is relatively easy to purchase, it is a definite plus for air cooling.

Gradually, future requirements for the "Gnome" project are emerging - a relatively small, but certainly powerful NWO. Small and powerful - the true hero of fairy tales:

1. The project should be easy to manufacture, even for beginners.
2. It should not take much time, in fact, the period can be set at 1 day for the purchase of all components and assembly.
3. The cost should not be too high. We think that the price of a hi-end cooler is $ 60. would be a good guideline.
4. The size of the entire system should not increase excessively. Who wants to turn their PC into a completely non-transportable box? Although you will still have to handle the system unit with care, as in the case of using, for example, the Cooler Master Hyper 6 cooler.
5. Security. Anything can happen, in the absence of experience it is easy to lose sight of something important. We will try to minimize the risk of leakage, therefore we will remove the tank from the CBO. However, it can always be added to the system, therefore, at the end of the article, a method will be given for the most simple manufacture of an expansion tank. Of course outside the project.

We have decided on the requirements, now let's see what we need:

• The water block is the hardest part of the project. The cost of serial products starts at $ 22. In fact, the timing of the project is set by the timing of getting the water block in hand; it can be found on free sale throughout the country, but this is already a little more expensive.
• Radiator - as a radiator we will choose domestic products from the Gazelle car interior stove. A pretty good copper heatsink that is well ventilated. One of the experiences of use can be read. Cost from $ 20.
• Pump - we will take a submersible pump with an eye to alteration to the external. In this case, this is Heto QD-2800, you can also see the overview and the rework process at. If you do not find a Heto pump, then choose any of the same design. The QD-2800 model costs $ 13.
• Hoses - 1-1.5 m hose with an inner diameter of 13 mm and 1 m with an inner diameter of 8-10 mm (depends on the water block fittings). 10 - 40 rubles per meter in the case of PVC and about twice as much for silicone hoses.
• "Plumbing" is a special fittings that will allow us to abandon the expansion tank, simultaneously playing the role of adapters from thick hoses to thin ones. Two faucets "for a washing machine" (100 rubles each), 3 - 4 fittings of the required diameter with the required thread (20 rubles each). Total about $ 10.
• Fan - for the high efficiency of the SVO, the radiator must be blown. From $ 3 for a 120mm fan.
• Distilled water - from 1 liter, less than $ 1 per liter.
• Autosealant "Kazan Silicone" - $ 1 for a small tube.

The sealant "Kazan Silicone" is the best that came into your hands. Indispensable in the process of creating a CBO. As you can see, all the elements are easy enough to find. You need to go to the aquarium store, auto parts store, plumbing and computer firm.

Assembly

There is nothing complicated in the assembly process, the main thing is not to rush. All joints are abundantly coated with sealant, the excess is then easily removed with a piece of paper, or if the sealant has frozen, then it is carefully cut off with a knife. To begin with, to the outside.

Then, instead of the suction connection of the pump, you should screw in the "faucet for the washing machine" - in stores it is called that way. We also screw it through the sealant. Be careful when using the Heto QD-2800 pump instead of its big brother, as the pressure ring (blue in the photo) is thin and the camera cover can be easily scrolled. Don't let this happen, as the tightness depends on it. This is not typical for older Heto models, since the pressure ring is larger.

We collect the second faucet. Thus, it also plays the role of an adapter from 13 mm hose to 8-10 mm. You can do without a second tap, but with it the refueling process is no more complicated in terms of labor intensity than when using an expansion tank.

Almost everything is ready, it remains only to cut the 13 mm hose and put it on the radiator. The photo shows a new water block from ProModz, a review of which you will be able to read shortly.

Connect the suction connection of the pump to the lower connection of the radiator if the radiator remains on its side in the finished system. If the radiator is suspended from the back of the system unit, then to any fitting. In the case of a horizontal arrangement, connect the suction hose to a fitting that will be lower than the other. This is necessary so that the remaining air in the system is caught by the radiator and does not "walk", breaking the silence. The amount of air will be very small, but sufficient to provide room for thermal expansion of the water. Thus, the radiator in the project will serve us like an expansion tank, taking from it a compensatory function.

Cooling the processor affects the performance and stability of your computer. But it does not always cope with the loads, which is why the system crashes. The efficiency of even the most expensive cooling systems can greatly decrease due to the user's fault - poor-quality cooler installation, old thermal paste, dusty case, etc. To prevent this, it is necessary to improve the quality of cooling.

If the processor overheats due to the previously done overclocking and / or high loads during the operation of the PC, then you will either have to change the cooling to a better one, or reduce the load.

The main elements that produce the greatest amount of heat are the processor and the video card, sometimes it can also be the power supply, the chipset and the hard drive. In this case, only the first two components are cooled. Heat dissipation of the rest of the computer components is negligible.

If you need a gaming machine, then think, first of all, about the size of the case - it should be as large as possible. Firstly, the larger the system unit, the more components you can install into it. Secondly, there is more space in a large case, which is why the air inside it heats up more slowly and has time to cool. Also, pay special attention to the ventilation of the case - there must be ventilation holes in it so that hot air does not linger for a long time (an exception can be made if you are going to install water cooling).

Try to monitor the temperature indicators of the processor and video card more often. If the temperature often exceeds the permissible values ​​of 60-70 degrees, especially when the system is idle (when no heavy programs are running), then take active steps to reduce the temperature.

Let's take a look at several ways to improve the quality of cooling.

Method 1: correct housing position

The case for high-performance devices should be large enough (preferably) and have good ventilation. It is also desirable that it be made of metal. In addition, you need to take into account the location of the system unit, tk. certain objects can prevent air from entering, thereby disrupting circulation and increasing the temperature inside.

Apply these tips to the layout of your system unit:

Method 2: clean the dust

Dust particles can impair air circulation, fans and radiators. They also retain heat very well, so it is necessary to regularly clean the "insides" of the PC. The frequency of cleaning depends on the individual characteristics of each computer - the location, the number of ventilation holes (the more there are, the better the cooling quality, but the faster dust accumulates). Cleaning is recommended at least once a year.

Cleaning should be done with a non-hard brush, dry rags and napkins. In special cases, you can use a vacuum cleaner, but only at minimum power. Consider the step-by-step instructions for cleaning the computer case from dust:

Method 3: put an extra fan

By using an optional fan that attaches to the air vent on the left or rear wall of the chassis, you can improve air circulation inside the chassis.

First you need to choose a fan. The main thing is to pay attention to whether the characteristics of the case and motherboard allow you to install an additional device. It is not worth giving preference to any manufacturer in this matter, because it is a fairly cheap and durable computer element that is easy to replace.

If the overall characteristics of the case allow, then you can install two fans at once - one on the back, the other in the front. The first removes hot air, the second sucks in cold air.

Method 4: speed up the fans

In most cases, the fan blades rotate at only 80% of their maximum speed. Some “smart” cooling systems are able to independently adjust the fan speed - if the temperature is at an acceptable level, then decrease it, if not, then increase it. This function does not always work correctly (and in cheap models it is not at all), so the user has to overclock the fan manually.

Do not be afraid to overclock the fan too much, because otherwise, you run the risk of only slightly increasing the power consumption of the computer / laptop and the noise level. To adjust the speed of rotation of the blades, use the software solution - SpeedFan. The software is completely free, translated into Russian and has an intuitive interface.

Method 5: we replace the thermal paste

Replacing the thermal paste does not require any serious costs in terms of money and time, but it is advisable to show some accuracy here. You also need to take into account one feature with a warranty period. If the device is still under warranty, then it is better to contact the service with a request to change the thermal paste, this should be done free of charge. If you try to change the paste yourself, the computer will be removed from the warranty.

When changing yourself, you need to carefully consider the choice of thermal paste. Give preference to more expensive and high quality tubes (ideally those that come with a special application brush). It is desirable that the composition contains compounds of silver and quartz.

Method 6: installing a new cooler

If the cooler does not cope with its task, then it should be replaced with a better and more suitable analogue. The same applies to outdated cooling systems, which, due to a long period of operation, cannot function normally. It is recommended, if the dimensions of the case permit, to choose a cooler with special copper heat sink pipes.

Follow the step-by-step instructions for replacing an old cooler with a new one: