How to identify and fix a malfunctioning RAM. Why the RAM is warming up Why the RAM on the laptop is warming up

Question: The computer does not work with new RAM


Good day to all.
Please help me figure out what's wrong. A week ago I bought myself two operational planks memory kingston KVR16N11S8 / 4-SP on 4Gb in the online store (Brand Star). I was very “lucky”, on the day of ordering they were at the store's warehouse, to celebrate, I dropped all my business and went to the store as soon as I bought it, flew out of the store with a feeling of euphoria and almost ran home with them. With this feeling of joy, he quickly disassembled his computer, pulled out the old slats, carefully put them on the shelf and decided that I would take them to the dacha in old computer... I put new ones, assembled the computer, set it down, smiling from ear to ear, settled comfortably in a chair, pressed the power button ... and then the feeling of joy immediately flew into oblivion, the smile slipped from my bewildered face, somewhere on the floor. The computer rebooted cyclically, preventing the entry into the BIOS. Not understanding what it was, I disassembled the computer and installed only one new bar, with one bar the computer boots and enters the BIOS, the computer boots only up to the Windows logo and again, and again rebooted in the same place. Having decided that the problem was in the OS, he found my old USB flash drive, for such cases, and began to reinstall Windows, set all the parameters in the BIOS, boot from the USB flash drive, the boot logo and bam! Reboot. I set the timings (11-11-11-24) ... Nothing comes of it. He spat out of anger, set the old planks. Turned on the computer, saw the desktop, turned off the computer. Dear friends and comrades, tell me how to start this damn new RAM?

KINGSTON KVR16N11S8 / 4-SP

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS
Memory type
DDR3
Form Factor
DIMM 240-pin
Clock frequency
1600 MHz
Bandwidth
12800 Mb / s
Volume
1 module 4 GB
ECC support
No
Buffered (Registered)
No

No
ADDITIONALLY
The number of chips of each module
8, one-sided packing
Supply voltage
1.5V
Number of ranks
1
TIMING
CAS Latency (CL)
11
RAS to CAS Delay (tRCD)
11
Row Precharge Delay (tRP)
11

SAMSUNG M378B5773CH0-CH9

General characteristics

Memory type
DDR3
Form Factor
DIMM 240-pin
Clock frequency
1333 MHz
Bandwidth
10600 Mb / s
Volume
1 module 2 GB
ECC support
No
Buffered (Registered)
No
Low Profile
No
Timings

CAS Latency (CL)
9
RAS to CAS Delay (tRCD)
9
Row Precharge Delay (tRP)
9
Additionally

Supply voltage
1.5V

ASUS P7H55-M PRO

CPU

Socket
LGA1156
Supported processors
Intel Core i7 / Core i5 / Core i3 / Pentium
Support for multi-core processors
there is
Chipset

Chipset
Intel H55
BIOS
AMI with disaster recovery capability
SLI / CrossFire support
No
Memory

Memory
DDR3 DIMM, 1066 - 2133 MHz
Number of memory slots
4
Dual channel support
there is
Maximum memory
16 GB
Disk controllers

IDE
number of slots: 1, UltraDMA 133
SATA
number of connectors SATA 3Gb / s: 6
Expansion slots

Expansion slots
1xPCI-E x16, 1xPCI-E x1, 2xPCI
PCI Express 2.0 support
there is
Audio Video

Sound
7.1CH, HDA
Built-in video adapter
there is
Network

Ethernet
1000 Mbps
Connection

Availability of interfaces
12 USB, S / PDIF output, 1xCOM, D-Sub, DVI, HDMI, Ethernet, PS / 2 (keyboard)
Rear panel connectors
6 USB, optical out, D-Sub, DVI, HDMI, Ethernet, PS / 2 (keyboard)
Main power connector
24-pin
Processor power connector
8-pin
Extra options

Form Factor
microATX

Intel Core i5-661 Clarkdale (3333MHz, LGA1156, L3 4096Kb)

General characteristics
Socket LGA1156
Core
Clarkdale core
Number of cores 2
Process technology 32 nm
Frequency characteristics
Clock frequency 3333 MHz
DMI system bus
Multiplication factor 25
Core voltage 0.65 V
Integrated HD Graphics 900 MHz
Built-in memory controller, 21 Gb / s bandwidth
Cache
L1 cache size 64 KB
L2 cache size 512 KB
L3 cache size 4096 KB
Command Sets
Hyper-Threading support is
Instructions MMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSE4
AMD64 / EM64T support is
NX Bit support is
Virtualization Technology support is
Additionally
Typical heat dissipation 87 W
Maximum operating temperature 69.8 ° C
Additional Information Core Voltage 0.65V-1.4V

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost (ASUS)

General characteristics

Graphics card type
office / game
GPU
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 Ti
Interface
PCI-E 16x 3.0
GPU codename
GK106
Technical process
28 nm
Number of Monitors Supported
4
Maximum resolution
2560x1600
Specifications

GPU frequency
980 MHz
Video memory size
2048 Mb
Video memory type
GDDR5
Video memory frequency
5400 MHz
Video memory bus width
128 bit
RAMDAC frequency
400 MHz
Connection

Connectors
DVI x2, HDCP, HDMI, VGA support
HDMI version
1.4a
Math block

Number of universal processors
768
Shader version
5.0
Number of texture units
64
Number of ROP units
16
Maximum degree of anisotropic filtering
16x
Maximum FSAA grade
32x
Standards support
DirectX 11, OpenGL 4.3
additional characteristics

CUDA support
there is
The need for additional food
yes, 6 pin
TDP
110 watts
Number of occupied slots
2

A laptop is a good thing in terms of portability. But for it you have to sacrifice components. That is why specially designed video cards, processors, RAM, etc. are inserted into laptops. They are not able to compete with their "brothers" for the PC, but more to the point ...

So, the main reason that a laptop or netbook heats up is dust.
And if in the case of a PC you could only clean it by unscrewing the cover of the system unit, then with mobile PCs it is much more difficult.
Drying out of the thermal paste is also a common cause. Thermal paste is applied mainly to the processor and prevents it from heating up. But over time, it dries up and needs to be replaced.
Also, together with the heating of the laptop, its "noise" is most often present. After all, if the dust blocks the air outlet in the grilles, then the cooler (fan) tries to spin harder and faster in order to push this hot air through. Of course, this is not normal for him - he crites at double (or more) speed. And over time, he can "cover".
In the cases described above, it is recommended to take the laptop to a specialist in service center.

It can still get warm due to the fact that obstructed air outlet from a laptop. The laptop provides special "holes" located throughout the body or in certain places. They release hot air from the processor and graphics card. Therefore, you should know that you do not need to obstruct them with rags or books or anything else. But most often these "holes" are clogged with dust, and here you cannot do without the help of a specialist and disassembling a laptop.

If your laptop or netbook began to freeze and reboot by itself - be aware that this is a sign that it is overheating and an emergency shutdown is triggered.

You can determine overheating using programs. for example using a program.

Download and run. Go to the tab A computer - Sensors:

Maximum allowable temperatures for laptop components:

CPU- not higher than 50 degrees
Motherboard- 30-40 degrees
Video card- 50-60 at idle, 80-90 at load.

The only thing I can advise ordinary users to protect themselves from overheating and not go to the SC is to buy a cooling supply. Now there are quite a few variations of them, but it is better to take them under the entire case, raise them, with fans and additional USB port ami... The stronger the material, the better. Aluminum is ideal.

With this stand you will get such advantages as:

  • the hot air outlet will not be blocked;
  • the inlet of cold air will also be free (and it is usually taken from the bottom of the case);
  • will take up one USB port, and in return you can get 2-10 additional (and USB connectors often not enough for laptops);
  • additional fans will give more effect (if they are located where necessary);
  • thereby reduce the heating temperature by 5-15 degrees.

    But in any case, this is only a temporary solution to the problem and either you do not value your data, or you are lazy. Therefore, the most correct decision is to disassemble and remove dust.
    If you do not know how or are afraid, then it is better not to poke your nose. Because after that, it may not turn on at all.
    On my own behalf, I will add only what I disassembled and cleaned the laptop the other day. Replaced thermal grease and cleaned the "passage" in the vents. As a result, the laptop became much less hot (before the hand was already "burning" near the "air outlet") and became almost noiseless (well, still, the poor cooler (fan) tried its best to spin as fast as possible to push hot air through this layer of dust).

    Overheating of the RAM can cause many problems. How to choose a cooling method if it is heating RAM?

    from 120 p. RUB

    Oddly enough, but the RAM is also overheating. The RAM node is also capable of overheating, so it is worth considering the causes and consequences of this process. When the RAM heats up, this can cause a number of malfunctions and errors in the operation of the device.

    If the RAM overheats, then it burns out and can no longer be used, since it simply will not work.

    For this reason, overheating of the RAM should be combated and prevented. RAM cooling is achieved different ways, from installing a cooler to using liquid cooling. It all depends on the model of your computer and how modern it is.

    To begin with, you can consider the option of installing a radiator in the case when the RAM is warming up. Heat exchange occurs between the parts of the device and thus the operating system is cooled.

    I would like to note that heating is not always worth fighting. It is best to deal with overheating of the device in order to avoid unpleasant consequences.

    RAM has a rather complex device and therefore we will not consider its structure in detail, since this is not the topic of the article. If you have problems with the RAM, be sure to take your computer to a service, where they will carry out diagnostics and establish the problem of overheating.

    Self-repair or installation of a cooling system in order to eliminate overheating usually does not end well. Therefore, without professional skills, you should not even think about self-repair or upgrades.

    Reasons for overheating of RAM

    When the RAM heats up, you should think about whether something broke for you for an hour. In case of detecting overheating of the RAM, it is worth knowing a few important points... Firstly, the RAM has several contacts, when displaced, overheating can occur.

    If the voltage flows are uneven and plus goes to plus, then of course, the RAM will warm up.

    Also, the reason may be that the case is poorly ventilated, the air flows in it do not circulate, and the warm air is not cooled. In this case, you should check the entire cooling system of the system unit and make sure everything is in order. Otherwise it is worth contacting the service to troubleshoot RAM problems.

    The RAM is heating up, is the radiator a way out?

    Heating the RAM to a critical temperature for us, for example, 85-90 degrees is sometimes normal. If the RAM heats up to such a temperature and functions adequately, then it is comfortable for it. Heating the RAM is not always a flaw.

    Date of publication: 05/18/2015

    In this article, I will go into detail on how to diagnose memory problems. We will also figure out how to fix and replace RAM using the example of a PC, laptop, and on Windows examples and Linux.

    I will try to describe everything in detail and clearly. Therefore, beginners will be able to figure it out, and experienced users will find something interesting for themselves.

    Terms:
    RAM is the official name for random access memory.
    RAM bar - a microcircuit, which is a random access memory.

    How RAM can go bad

    Random access memory is a microcircuit inserted into a special slot in your computer or laptop. Naturally, there is more RAM in a computer, and less in a laptop. The RAM bar is the most reliable piece of hardware in your computer or laptop. According to statistics, they are the least likely to break, and therefore the warranty period for them is longer (on average - 4 years).

    This is due to the simplicity of the microcircuit. It practically does not heat up, and therefore it does not need a cooler (fan). In rare cases, a radiator is put on the operating room for cooling, but this is usually found on powerful gaming computers... In addition, the heatsink makes the RAM bar structurally stronger.

    RAM can only be physically damaged. Those. not a single virus or software problem has yet been able to taint the RAM. Therefore, the causes of the problem are most often:

    1) Manufacturing defects.
    2) Problems with the power supply.
    3) Mechanical damage to the RAM strip or connectors.
    4) Static stress.
    5) Simple wear and tear.
    6) Overheating / hypothermia.

    Manufacturing defect is rare. In 1% of cases, and this does not greatly depend on the manufacturer. This is due to the fact that all microcircuits are checked by the manufacturer. In addition, the warranty period for RAM is long. Therefore, it is enough just to go to the service center and change the RAM bar under warranty.

    Power supply problems are rare. In power supplies and maternal memory there are controllers that do not allow the output of a voltage greater than expected. However, there are times when it is a voltage failure that spoils the RAM. Unfortunately, this can only be checked with a voltmeter, which most people do not have at home (but in vain). If the problem is in the power supply, then you will have to replace it too.

    Mechanical damage- the most common case. This usually happens when you try to force the RAM stick in. Sometimes it is not the microcircuit itself that is damaged, but the connector.

    Static stress is extremely rare. In my practice, I have never encountered such a thing. System unit the computer and the laptop case are always closed, and therefore static electricity is excluded. Moreover, in modern devices there is an antistatic mesh under motherboard... However, static electricity can become a threat. For example, if you walk on the carpet in rubber slippers, and then climb your hands into the "insides" of the computer.

    Simple wear happens over time. Nothing in this world lasts forever. The RAM bar can deteriorate both after 4 years and after 15 years. It all depends on the operating conditions and the manufacturer.

    Overheating or hypothermia can also ruin the RAM. But this rarely happens, since absolutely exorbitant temperatures (+ 100C, -45C) are required to ruin the microcircuit. Clean your computer and laptop from dust and everything will be fine.

    How to fix corrupted RAM

    No way. If the RAM bar is damaged, then it is almost impossible to fix it. If the matter is in the connector or worn out contacts, then you can do something else. However, the microcircuit itself cannot be repaired in any way, it can only be replaced. Fortunately, they are inexpensive. 2GB at 1600Hz cost around 1,500 rubles, which is quite a bit considering the warranty period. Just try not to buy RAM with less than two years warranty.

    However, don't be intimidated. Problems can be solved.

    What signs indicate a defect in RAM

    Common signs:
    1) The system does not start. Or it starts to reboot itself endlessly, trying to start normally.
    2) The system does not start at all. Usually accompanied by beeping. This means that the RAM was not detected at all. This means either a very severe damage to the RAM strip, or damage to the connector.

    Windows:
    1) crashes blue screen of death. Blue screen with technical information... The error code is most often different. That is, it makes no sense to google the error, because the codes are always different and always show a different reason. Sometimes this happens due to the fact that the RAM bar is not fully inserted.
    2) System malfunctions. This is usually associated with programs and games that use RAM heavily. A vivid example: programs, browser and games crash with a system error. Sometimes accompanied by a crash into a blue screen.

    Linux:
    1) System malfunctions and program crashes. Sometimes it's funny. You go to the browser, it crashes with an error, you try to view the error report, but it also crashes with a system error. Even if you look at the logs, it is still not always immediately clear what the problem is. It is common for all debian-derived distributions.
    2) The system does not boot. Crashes to the console or writes an error. Although it may be for some who use Arch or LFS, it is intended :)

    How to check RAM for defects

    The easiest way to check the RAM is to download and install it on a USB flash drive or CD (does anyone else use them ?!) special utility Memtest86.

    There is Memtest86, and then there is Memtest86 +. The difference between them is small, so you can download any on the official website: www.memtest.org

    This archive contains an automatic installer for a USB stick. Those. insert a USB flash drive, run the program and follow simple instructions... Then you insert this flash drive into your computer or laptop, boot from it and check the RAM.

    If you are on Linux, Memtest86 comes bundled with images for Debian, Ubuntu, Fedora and a few others. And also the utility can be launched from the grub menu at startup. If you don't know what grub is, then it's too early for you to start using Linux :)

    But! Before running the program from a USB flash drive, you need to do the following.

    Step 1.
    First you need to find the microcircuit. This is easy to do. The RAM looks like a rectangular microcircuit. It is longer for a computer, shorter for a laptop.

    The microcircuit is clamped on the sides (tautology, yes). The clamps are easy to open, and then pull out the RAM bar. But before pulling out the microcircuit ...

    Step 2.
    Reset BIOS settings. When you start the system, press Del and exit BIOS menu... Select the Set to Default option (by default F9 or F10). Then save and reboot.
    This step is optional, but the hardware repair philosophy suggests this step. In some cases, resetting the settings helps the system to work.

    Step 3.
    Pull out the RAM chip and look at its condition. If the contacts are dirty, take an eraser and gently wipe them along.

    Step 4.
    If you have one bar, put it in the slot and run Memtest from the USB flash drive. If you have several RAM chips, then leave one and take out the rest.

    Step 5.
    By running Memtest, it will immediately start checking the RAM. It looks like this:

    In the image, I marked the program zones with color.
    Green - the characteristics of your processor (CPU).
    Purple - the stage of verification and the percentage of verification.
    Yellow - the model and characteristics of your RAM. Remember them or write them down, because if you want to buy a new RAM strip, you will rely on these characteristics.

    If the program detects errors, it will mark them in red. Even one mistake is already a reason to replace the RAM.

    Step 6.
    After checking, turn off your computer or laptop. Then take out the RAM again and insert it into another slot. Run Memtest again.
    If the errors appear again, then you need to replace the RAM bar, tk. it can't be fixed anymore.
    If no errors appear, then the point is in the connector.

    If you have multiple RAM chips, check each one in turn. If the matter is in the connector, then simply do not use it, or take it to the service - to fix it.

    Problem solving

    If Memtest gives red errors, then your RAM can no longer be cured. Buy a new one.

    Of course, if there are not many errors, then you can continue to work with this RAM bar. But as soon as some program stumbles upon a damaged sector, glitches and crashes will begin. If you use Linux and can compile the kernel yourself, then relying on the data from Memtest86, you can build a system that would not use the specified areas of memory, avoiding errors.

    However, remember! If Memtest86 has detected errors in memory, then the wear process has already started. This means that over time, there will be more errors until the RAM finally deteriorates.

    Replacing the RAM is simple. You pull out the damaged microcircuit and carefully insert the new one. In laptops, the RAM bar is inserted and pulled out at an upward angle. Those. you insert the RAM diagonally, and then click on it from the top, until it clicks. And if you squeeze the limiters, then the microcircuit itself will "jump" upward.

    If you have a laptop with non-working RAM, then it is better to take it with you to the store right away. There, you can ask the consultant to install RAM in your laptop yourself, if you yourself are afraid. In addition, you can immediately test the operation of the new memory strip by taking with you a flash drive with Memtest86 +.

    conclusions

    If you do not understand something or have any questions, then leave them in the comments to this article.

    But, in general, it is not so difficult to test and replace the RAM. It's just that ignorance scares away, and therefore the main thing is to cope with fear. After all, computers and laptops are arranged as logically and simply as possible, surprisingly.


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    Board comments:

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    The second RAM slot in the lenovo g505 laptop does not work, I insert the RAM, I turn on the laptop, the laptop turns on the black screen, what is the problem, explain who knows

    The text is quite bearable, only the RAM bar itself is not a microcircuit, but a circuit (or board), and the microcircuits are those square black things on it.

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    Dude, you are awesome, helped out

    Good day! Such a question has matured. I have 4 bars for DDR2, 2 for 1 gig, 2 for 2 gigs, despite the fact that one manufacturer and one frequency. if you put them separately (2 to 2/2 to 1), everything plows, but only on the yellow slots of the mother. and when installing in different slots or installing 4 strips, some kind of failure occurs at once, the system engineer beeps incessantly and does not load the system. What to do?

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    Paul, no, this is hardly possible. The volume cannot change that way, even if the sectors are damaged. It is possible that your equipment reserves part of the memory. Go to Task Manager - Resource Monitor, and see how much is reserved by the hardware.

    Hello, such a question, can the RAM partially fail and show 1 gig instead of 4 gigs, for example, is it possible at all ???

    Hello! Please tell me, my RAM is working properly, as it was tested on other PCs (intel), but when I insert into my PC (intel), I have a black screen and one long squeak repeating, which indicates a malfunction of the RAM. I put the dice one at a time and different slots, the same 1 long squeak. Also on the motherboard there are 2 swollen capacitors near the processor socket above it and on the left, can this be the cause of the malfunction? Or is it the RAM slots? I hope I explained it clearly! Thank you in advance!